Tell me about Jewellery
A very 'Brief' History of Jewellery
What is Fashion Jewellery?
What is Costume Jewellery?
What is Art Jewellery?
A very 'Brief' History of Jewellery
The word jewellery derives from the word jewel, which was anglicised from the Old French "jouel" around the 13th century.
Jewellery as an ornament has a much longer history.
The oldest known jewellery is over 100,000 years old, (yes really). In earlier times, jewellery was used as a means of keeping clothes in place, tribal symbolism, currency, and as a means of protection (amulets) and of storing wealth. Moreover, there are millions of examples of these traditions today. However, in the west we are now just as likely to use it for decoration, or as a means of self-expression. It is one of the oldest forms of body adornment.
Earlier jewellery was made from natural materials such as wood, shell, bone, animal parts, and stone. Jewellery was traditionally made for people of high importance and as superstitions and belief systems evolved, they were often buried with their jewellery as a way to show their importance and wealth in the afterlife. As time progressed and more materials were available for humans to manipulate the materials used for jewellery grew, and items were made to adorn all parts of the body.
As each precious metal and gemstone was discovered, excavated, and manipulated, it would be used to adorn jewellery made by ancient peoples.
Jewellery is now made out such diverse materials as, glass, wood, stone, plastic, gemstones, precious minerals, gold, silver, titanium, platinum, wire, iron, copper, amber, enamel, polymer clay, human hair, bone, ivory, shell, fabrics, plastics, animal hide, rubber; and so on.
Early History
The earliest recorded jewellery were made from such materials as animal bone, teeth & stone, shell and nassarius, (tiny marine creatures found in coral reefs), often linked together by animal sinew.
Egypt
Around 3,000-5,000 years ago, jewellery making became more established. During the Pre-dynastic Period of Egyptian history, (the Neolithic period), the Egyptians became adept at mining and working with gold. They were also adept at capturing it as well as some no doubt non-obliging people from unfortunate neighbouring states in Eastern Africa and Nubia (ancient Sudan). Gold was luxurious and rare, and was only available to the very wealthy, who adorned themselves both in life and death. Interestingly it was common amongst wealthy boys to wear heavy bejewelled earrings, and for all children to wear protective amulets. Protection was needed to ensure;
Foreigners, bad-wishing Egyptians
and dangerous waters.’
Although they also were large supplies of gemstones available, they preferred to use coloured glass to decorate their gold artefacts and jewellery.
Much significance was given to different colours; green jewellery meant new growth for crops and fertility, red jewellery symbolised blood, for instance.
Mesopotamia
Mesopotamia, (modern day Iraq) had a fully established jewellery making business about some 4000 years ago. Both men and women wore ankle bracelets, heavy multi-strand necklaces and amulets. They preferred to work with metal leaf, which would then be set with large numbers of brightly coloured stones, in particular agate, lapis, carnelian, and jasper. They developed cloisonné, engraving, fine granulation, and filigree.
Greece
The Greeks were apparently using gems and gold in jewellery from 1,400 BC. Ancient Greeks preferred the forms of shell, flowers and beetles in their jewellery. By 300 BC, the Greeks had, mastered making multi coloured jewellery and used emeralds, garnets, amethysts and pearls. Also, carved cameos of Indian Sardonyx started to appear. Jewellery was usually only worn on special occasions, and mainly by women. Although pieces were often given as a gifts.
‘Evil Eye’ jewellery started to appear, and was worn as protection. Much of ancient Greek jewellery design was inspired by the countries they conquered, so influences ranged from Europe to Asia.
Rome
The most important piece of jewellery for the Romans was the brooch, mainly because it was used to hold clothing in place; The Romans were influenced by and in turn influenced every region, nation and culture they conquered. Although they used gold, they sometimes used bronze or bone and in earlier times, glass beads & pearl. As early as 2,000 years ago, they imported Sri Lankan sapphires and Indian diamonds to use in their jewellery. In Roman-ruled England, fossilized wood called jet from Northern England was often carved into pieces of jewellery. The early Italians worked in crude gold and created clasps, necklaces, earrings and bracelets. They also produced larger pendants, which could be filled with perfume.
Although woman wore a vast array of jewellery, men often only wore a finger ring. Although they were expected to wear at least one ring, some Roman men wore a ring on every finger, while others wore none. Roman men and women wore rings with a carved stone on it that was used with wax to seal documents, an act that continued into medieval times when Kings and noblemen used the same method. After the fall of the Roman Empire, neighbouring countries and tribes absorbed the jewellery designs.
Middle Ages in Europe
Post-Roman Europe continued to develop jewellery-making skills. Clothing fasteners, amulets, and to a lesser extent signet rings were commonly made.
The type of jewellery worn would be become influenced by the Sumptuary Laws.
Sumptuary Laws came into being in the 13th Century Europe. In particular, in France and England ordinary people were not allowed to wear girdles or coronals made of pearls, gemstones, gold or silver. Only the wealthy could dress in fashionable clothes. The laws also affected food, beverages, furniture. Penalties for violating Sumptuary Laws could be harsh - fines, the loss of property, title and even life!
In layman’s terms, it was a case of ‘how dare you dress like me you inferior snot’.
The sumptuary legislation of 1336 attempted to curb expenditure and preserve class distinction. One of acts stated the following:
"No knight under the estate of a lord, esquire or gentleman, nor any other person, shall wear any shoes or boots having spikes or points which exceed the length of two inches, under the forfeiture of forty pence."
The English Sumptuary Law of 1337
The sumptuary legislation of 1337 was designed to promote English garments and restrict the wearing of furs
The English Sumptuary Law of 1363
The sumptuary legislation passed in 1363 included the following:
* Women were, in general, to be dressed according to the position of their fathers or husbands
* Wives and daughters of servants were not to wear veils above twelve pence in value
* Handicraftsmen's and yeomen's wives were not to wear silk veils
* The use of fur was confined to the ladies of knights with a rental above 200 marks a year
* The wife or daughter of a knight was not to wear cloth of gold or sable fur
* The wife or daughter of a knight-bachelor not to wear velvet
* The wife or daughter of an esquire or gentleman not to wear velvet, satin or ermine
* The wife or daughter of a labourer were not to wear clothes beyond a certain price
* The wife or daughter of a labourer were not to wear a girdle garnished with silver
* Cloth of gold and purple silk were confined to women of the royal family
* The importation of silk and lace by Lombards and other foreigners were forbidden
These Sumptuary Laws distinguished seven social categories and made members of each class easily distinguished by their clothing.
Renaissance
The Renaissance and exploration both had significant impacts on the development of jewellery in Europe. By the 17th century, increasing exploration and trade lead to increased availability of a wide variety of gemstones as well as exposure to the art of other cultures. Whereas prior to this the working of gold and precious metal had been at the forefront of jewellery, this period saw increasing dominance of gemstones and their settings.
There followed various periods including Art Nouveau, Art Deco. As humans have travelled and explored and trade routes have opened up artisans have been subject to a myriad of influences.
Slave Beads
Slave Beads also known as Trade Beads, were used mainly between the 16th & 20th Centuries as a means of currency to pay for goods, services and slaves.
Production of these decorative glass beads was concentrated in Venice, Italy however; there were smaller factories throughout Europe. They were commonly used on the African continent (and elsewhere) to barter with traders. Millifiore (thousand flower) beads from Venice, were one of the most commonly traded beads, and are commonly known as "African trade beads." The success of European traders in exploiting these beads on the African continent is mainly because of the fact that decorative beads were highly valued throughout the continent. Beads were routinely used as currency and for the storage of wealth, proudly displayed rather than hidden away.
What is Fashion Jewellery?
Fashion jewellery less valuable materials, including but not limited to base metals, glass, plastics and synthetic stones, in place of more valuable materials such as precious metals and gems. It is mainly used for fashion purposes as opposed to a collectible or investment. Considered trendy or ‘in fashion’.
What is Costume Jewellery?
Similar to Fashion Jewellery, it is often made as a copy of more fine art jewellery, or jewellery made with materials that are more precious.
Gold and silver-plated items, gold, and silver toned items fall into this category. Often flashy but can be considered collectible.
What is Art Jewellery?
Both professional and hobby artists often make Art jewellery. Its main purpose is to be seen and showcased in the same light as a painting or sculpture.
It is often unique and unreplicated. It is not always meant to be worn and can be considered as an investment. The more famous and celebrated the artist the more the item will gain value as time goes on. There is no limit to the material that can be used to produce art jewellery.
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© Sapsiwai - Fotolia.com
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